As part of my graduate scheme with Bradford Literature Festival and Weston Jerwood Creative Bursaries I am spending one month working in Istanbul. I am placed at Kalem Agency, who are planning the 10th year anniversary of the Istanbul International Literature Festival. While I am here I hope to consult them on their international marketing strategy and take some ideas from them back to the UK. Over the next few weeks I will be posting about my time as a first time visitor to Istanbul.
The first thing I noticed about Istanbul is what a vast city it is, with an official population of 20 million, and an estimated actual population of 40 million, this is a very different to Bradford. The rush of people while I walk down the street is so refreshing in comparison to Bradford's quiet and often ghostly city centre. No matter how much I read up on the city, I was not prepared for how busy and cosmopolitan it is - think London X 4 (but more relaxed). Throughout my first week here I couldn't help notice how strong everyone's English is, even shop keepers of the tiniest stores know some English - something that us English speakers take for granted when we go abroad. Meanwhile I have mustered up the confidence to say 'merhaba' to people instead of hello, small steps.
Another thing I was worried about when coming here was dress code, I had no idea what is appropriate for a woman here. After living in the modern district of Beyoğlu for more than a week now, I can say that it is fine to where what you wish here, as long as you carry a scarf to attend places of worship. People have an amazing effortless fashion sense here. and clothes are very affordable.
I was also worried about vegetarian food options, but the food here has definitely been my favourite thing, there's event a vegan restaurant opposite where I live. The fruit and veg here is so fresh and affordable, and in this hot weather a salad with some halloumi or feta is all you need. Falafel in the UK will never match the warm rich flavoured falafel they sell here, perfectly coated with breadcrumbs and quickly deep fried for crispness. In addition to this, the outdoor cafe culture here is great, it's so easy to relax outdoors anywhere with some Turkish apple tea or Turkish coffee and let the hours pass you by. Everyday at lunch in the office Cenette Abla (Sister Cenette) treats us to freshly home cooked Turkish cuisine usually consisting of a vegetable stew or curry, rice or grains, salad and yogurt. I've never felt so healthy!
In the first week I tired to cover as many local museums and galleries as possible so I could become familiar with the local area. There is are so many in the Western side of Istanbul, but it is sad to see many of the permanently closed.
First of all I went to the Museum of Innocence, created by novelist Orhan Pamuk as a companion to his novel The Museum of Innocence. The museum and the novel were created in tandem, centred on the stories of two Istanbul families. It's a strange and quirky museum. The first thing you see as entering is a wall of cigarettes which has been dated and each one with a comment from one of the characters. The museum also included a fictional bedroom, baby dolls, clowns, playing cards, and bric-a-brac, almost like market.
I also visited Pera Museum, a more standard museum with ornaments, art and tools from Turkish history.
On my first weekend I went across the Bosporus river in a ferry to the Asian side of Istanbul to attend Istanbul Comics and Arts festival. Even though there was torrential rain I still had a good time listening to panels I didn't understand a word of, and looking rounds stalls with artwork, badges, bag, and comics, and the turn out was good considering the poor weather. My first impression of the Asian side of Istanbul it that it is more chaotic, hillier and definitely more catered towards local residents.
The weather on Sunday was much better! I took the underground and a bus to the Sariyer district which is one hour north of the centre of Istanbul. I first visited Emirgan Korusu (gardens), which I got lost in very easily! This huge park is perfect for family picnics and going for long walks. It has many sculptures, some made of out of flowers, and waterfalls. It is also newlywed couples' preferred destination to take their romantic wedding photos which explains why I saw at least 15 different newlywed couples within the space of 1 hour. Within the park there is the Lale (Tulip) museum which is about Turkey's national flower. Inside there are artefacts through time with the tulip symbol on, and explanations of why the tulip has religious significance.
I then walked 1 hour down along to the coast to Rumeli Haveli (fortress). It is at the point on the river where there is the least space between Europe an Asia, and there is a twin fortress just opposite it.
By climbing up the fortress you can see a great view of the area with it's serene river, hundreds of men fishing, families having fun in the sea, and a great view of the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Köprüsu (bridge).
My first week in Istanbul has been hot, exciting and intriguing. The friendly locals have helped me to settle in, and I look forward to the next three weeks of living and working here!